Shopping for a diamond can be both exciting and overwhelming, especially when you consider all the factors that contribute to a stone's appearance and value. Understanding the 4Cs of diamond grading—color grades, carat weight, clarity, and cut—is the key to knowing what you're getting.
These criteria distinguish a diamond and are part of how expert gemologists place a value on the stone. The grading is very similar, regardless of whether you choose a lab-grown or natural diamond. This guide breaks down the 4Cs so you can have a full understanding of what they are and why they matter, allowing you to choose a beautiful diamond that fits your style and budget.
What is a Diamond?
A diamond is a gemstone that is made up of pure carbon atoms, which come together to create a crystalline structure. This is a basic definition of what a diamond is, but there's more to it than that. Let's find out a little bit more.
Composition
A diamond contains about 99.95 percent carbon atoms, which are constructed into a crystal lattice formation. The other 0.05 percent of the stone contains trace amounts of other elements, including nitrogen, hydrogen, and boron, each of which contributes to the diamond's appearance. More nitrogen results in a yellowish tinge to the diamond, while boron may impart a bluish tint, for example. The makeup of elements and structure are what create the color and diamond shape variations seen in the gemstones.
Formation
Diamonds form under extreme heat, approximately 1600 to 2400 degrees, combined with extreme pressure of 45 to 60 kilobars. This process occurs inside the Earth's mantle, more than 50,000 feet below the surface, and takes millions, sometimes billions of years.
Diamonds make their way closer to the surface of the Earth when a volcano erupts or in areas where diamond mines are prevalent and are carried up by miners. A very rare type of diamond is sometimes formed when a meteorite makes impact with the Earth.
Properties
Quality diamonds are a highly sought-after gem, very often for jewelry, but also for certain industrial purposes. Their unique characteristics are the reason for this and include the following:
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Hardness: on the Mohs hardness scale, diamonds rank as the hardest natural material on Earth with a rating of 10. That makes them resistant to being scratched, making them valuable for a piece of jewelry, such as the perfect engagement ring.
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Transparency: when you look at a diamond, the light passes through it, which is why they glitter and sparkle. This high diamond clarity is due to the stone's crystal structure, as discussed above.
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Refractive index: this refers to a diamond's ability to bend light, which is much higher than other gemstones. This is what gives a loose diamond its brilliance and sparkle.
Uses
Finished diamonds are primarily used to create jewelry. They are durable and beautiful, contributing to their value for earrings, necklaces, and rings. However, diamonds are also useful in certain industrial activities.
Because they have such a high hardness rating, they can be used for grinding, cutting, and polishing other hard materials, including other diamonds. Some examples include surgical instruments, heat sinks, semiconductors, and some aspects of scientific research.
Cleaning
To maintain a polished diamond, it's important to take good care of it, which includes regular cleaning. The best way to clean a diamond with confidence is to use warm, soapy water and a gentle cloth. A soft brush will help remove dirt, debris, and oils. A deep cleaning can be done by a diamond expert and involves the use of ultrasonic or steam cleaning devices.
These methods are not recommended for stones with obvious inclusions because they can damage the delicate structure of the diamond.
Color
You are probably most familiar with white diamonds, but there is a rainbow of colored diamonds, including black, pink, green, and blue. When it comes to traditional white stones, the diamond color scale ranges from colorless to a "near-colorless" diamond to tinges of colors resulting from trace elements.
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Common diamond colors: yellow, grey, and brown, usually due to the presence of nitrogen.
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Rare colors: boron gives diamonds a bluish color, while radiation creates a green hue. Black diamonds are usually the result of inclusions. Pink, purple, and orange are other rare colors, with red diamonds being the rarest. Fancy-colored diamonds are highly prized for their unique appearance.
Size
Diamonds are measured in carats, which contribute significantly to a diamond's value and cost. A 1-carat diamond is equal to 0.2 grams. Combined with the other 4Cs of diamond quality - color, clarity, and cut - you can assume that a larger diamond is more valuable than smaller stones.
Fun fact: the largest diamond ever recorded is called the Cullinan Diamond, which weighed in at a hefty 3,106 carats, part of which was used to create the Great Star of Africa, part of the British Crown Jewels.
The History of Diamonds
Historically, diamonds have a long and symbolic history that goes back millions, perhaps billions of years.
Formation
As mentioned above, diamonds form deep within the Earth, under extreme heat and pressure. This heat and pressure rearrange the carbon atoms in the stone, creating a crystal structure that ranks 10 on the hardness scale. Diamonds are one the oldest natural materials on Earth and the process of creating a natural diamond takes a very long time.
Sometimes, a volcanic eruption moves diamonds closer to the surface of the Earth, where they come to rest in kimberlites, a specific kind of rock. The result is kimberlite pipes, where diamonds often rest until they are discovered.
Discovery
Around the 4th century BC is evidence of the first known diamonds, in what is modern day Hyderabad. These diamonds were valuable due to their brilliance, hardness and clarity, quickly making them highly desired as a symbol of wealth. They were mined in riverbeds and were often used as trade objects with Europe.
Use
Historically, diamonds were used as a way to carve or engrave, due to their hardness. Along the Silk Road, they were highly valued as the means to create tools and trade with other communities. Additionally, diamonds became prized for their beauty and the wealthy began using them to create jewelry.
Symbolism
Cultures around the world have mythologized diamonds, with some examples being a lightning connection and the forces of nature, or that they were the tears of the gods or fallen stars, giving them mystical or healing powers in many communities.
Other cultures viewed diamonds as a form of protection, with soldiers carrying them into battle. Perhaps most familiar is the connection with eternal love, a symbol that continues today.
Diamond Engagement Rings
Back in the year 1477, Archduke Maximilian of Austria proposed to Mary of Burgundy with a diamond ring, creating a tradition that continues into modern times. The stone symbolizes commitment and a lasting bond, as well as the loyalty involved in a marriage. The tradition spread through Europe and has come to be a symbol associated with the engagement period and the universal language of love.
Marketing
De Beers can take the lion's share of the credit for the transformation in the diamond industry that occurred during the early 20th century. Their "Diamond is Forever" campaign from 1947 connected diamonds to romance and started a worldwide desire for the perfect diamond, increasing both popularity and demand.
Hatton Garden
In the 1870s, approximately 13.5 million carats of diamonds were mined in South Africa, creating a boom in availability. Many of the diamonds ended up in England's Hatton Gardens, an area with a high concentration of diamond experts who quickly turned the region into a highly sought-after place to buy, trade, and create diamonds and diamond jewelry.
Who Provides Diamond Grading?
There are several organizations with skilled graders that examine diamonds and create a diamond grading report and associated diamond certification, based on established industry standards. While there are international standards, each organization approaches the grading process a bit differently. The main entities are listed below and are great resources for making an informed decision when it comes to buying valuable diamonds.
Gemological Institute of America (GIA)
The GIA is the most widely known and recognized organization that offers trusted diamond grading authority. Since 1931, the GIA has graded diamonds based on the 4Cs grading scale - carat size, diamond cut, diamond color, and diamond clarity. The GIA grades both natural and lab-grown diamonds, offering a detailed report on the diamond quality. Reports from the GIA are very commonly used in the jewelry industry.
American Gem Society (AGS)
The American Gem Society has quite strict grading standards, especially when it comes to the cut, requiring a high-quality cut for a valuable stone grading. The stone is graded on a scale of 1 to 10. Additionally, the AGS considers ethics and education as part of their raking strategy.
International Gemological Institute (IGI)
The IGI provides grading and reports for natural diamonds and lab-grown diamonds. It's an especially popular choice for ranking lab-created stones. Since 1975, the International Gemological Institute has grown globally and is especially prevalent in Europe and Asia. It offers an affordable price and a quick turnaround time.
European Gemological Laboratory (EGL)
Used primarily in Europe, as the name implies, the EGL provides a diamond rating scale that is used for natural diamonds. The reports are quite detailed, but the standards differ slightly from those used by the GIA and the AGS. The EGL is often more lenient when it comes to color and clarity.
HRD Antwerp
HRD (Hoge Raad voor Diamant) is a Belgium-based entity that grades natural diamonds with strict regulations that rival those of the GIA. HRD has a very strong presence in the European diamond market and is one of the most reputable as well.
Sarine Technologies
Using AI technology, this company works primarily in Israel and assesses cut, clarity, and diamond symmetry. They will grade both lab-grown and natural diamonds and use a 3d mapping and grading technology, which offers a clear vision of what the stone might look like as a polished diamond.
Natural Diamonds versus Lab-Grown Diamonds
Lab-grown diamonds have nearly the same chemical properties of natural mined diamonds, but they are grown in a controlled lab environment. They are both graded using the same criteria. Both types of diamonds are very similar when it comes to the optical properties and physical structure, making it almost impossible to discern the difference unless you are an expert.
If you're looking for an affordable finished diamond, a lab-grown stone is a great option for saving money without giving up the brilliance and sparkle of your gem! The price difference is not due to quality, but rarity, so your finished diamond is sure to shine just the same (or better) than its natural counterpart.
The reason lab-created diamonds have similar physical and optical properties to natural diamonds is because the lab process mimics how diamonds are created in the earth. So, when you buy a lab created diamond, you can expect the same high quality and rating based on the same industry standards. Lab-grown diamonds are still considered high-quality gems and will give you all the diamond characteristics you expect from a fine gemstone, just for a lower price!
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